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Thread: Road Glide Ape Hanger Install (Write up/Pics)

  1. #1
    Foudning Member 93-331-29psi's Avatar
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    Road Glide Ape Hanger Install (Write up/Pics)

    The first step is to ensure that you have all the tools you'll need and I'd highly recommend having the harley service manual for your bike to assist with torque specs as well as instructions for disassembly/assembly. I have pulled the front off of many Road Glides and don't feel that manual to be necessary, but I won't accept responsibility for any wrong doing or issues you may encounter following my process. I will also mention that this was written based off of my 2012 CVO Roadglide custom and I know that previous year RG bikes have different TBW set up. Please at a minimum read this entirely before ripping your scoot apart.

    The tools I used for this job were as follows

    T25 Torx Driver (or socket with 6" extension)
    T27 Torx Driver (or socket with 6" extension)
    T40 Torx Driver (or socket with 6" extension)
    12mm wrench
    1/2" wrench
    9/16" wrench
    1/2" socket 3/8 drive
    9/16" socket 3/8 drive
    3/8 drive ratchet
    Phillips Screw Driver (I used the harley tool that I got with the bike)
    Small Flathead Screwdriver
    Jeweler Screwdriver (flat head)
    Hair frosting needle ??? or possible a very small Crochet Needle
    Long sewing needle 2" min
    Thin needle nose pliars
    Side/Wire cutters or dykes (which ever term you prefer)
    Fender and Tank Covers should you choose. I used old towels because I'm too cheap to buy the professional items.

  2. #2
    Foudning Member 93-331-29psi's Avatar
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    First I inspected my new handle bars for defects to ensure that there were no defects in workmanship, followed by one last ride with the old bars and a picture to jog my memory on how it was stock.





    Remove the 2 screws (one on each side) holding the gauge pod to the bezel using a T25 torx driver.


    Pushing upward towards the top of the gauge pod gently remove the bottom tab of the pod from under the ignition switch nacelle, then wiggle the top loose.


    Disconnect the speedometer (black plug) and tachometer (gray plug)…….

    as well as the warning light plug (Square black plug)

    Set gauge pod to the side, or on the work bench where it won't get damaged.

    Next you'll remove the 4 torx screws holding the fork cover/switch panel to the front forks, using a T40 torx driver.


    Now you want to separate the gauge pod nacelle so that you can access the handlebar clamp and wiring harnesses. To do this pull apart the top front, then the top back, then the lower piece where the right and left sides meet.


    The lower right side will free itself completely, but the left will not, unless you want to further disassemble things. I left the right side cover rest in place and slightly turned the left so that I could access the handlebar clamp bolts.

    The right side switch panel has a connector that resides in the bunch of wires that live behind the gauges. Locate the switch panel wire connect and disconnect it. This will allow easier access to the wiring harness coming out of the bars.


    If your bike has these plastic air deflectors, now would be an ideal time to remove them. Mine were pulled off day one, but to remove them rotate the bottom towards rear of bike and the top towards front of bike and they should pop right out.


    Next I removed the headlights to make outer fairing removal/installation easier. Remove headlight bezel by depressing the two bottom tabs with a small flat blade screwdriver (using caution not to scratch the paint)


    Once the bottom bezel tabs have been released pull gently forward and upward on the bottom and the top tabs should release effortlessly. Set bezel with gauge pod in a safe place.


    If your bike is the newer style with removable headlights (2010+ ???) remove 4 screws per light, disconnect headlight wiring harness by pressing on the 2 release tabs on the plug, and set the lights to the side. (Remembering which is which as they may be side specific)




    Once the headlights are out, you'll want to remove the headlight adjuster/backing plate assembly. This is done by depressing the two tabs on each (2 bottom, 1 top) of the green headlight adjuster screw nuts.


    Once backing plate is out set it with your other pile of parts.

    Next step is to remove the outer fairing so you can access the wiring harness that connects to the handlebars controls. To do so you remove the 6 fairing screws that connect the inner and outer fairing together using a T25 Torx driver.


    as well as the 4 nuts (2 each side) that hold the front turn signals to the lower engine guard support brackets using 1/2" socket or wrench.

    Remove the turn signal by pulling the two studs from the support bracket ensuring that you don't gouge up the paint on the outer fairing. Allow these to hang and rest naturally. Repeat on other side.

    This would be a good time to look through where the headlights were so you can see the two hooks below the radio which the fairing rest on, this will provide you the knowing of how it goes back on. I wasn't able to get a clear picture of this (came out blurry).

    Once all the screws and turn signals are removed it is time to remove the outer fairing. To do so you put your hand through the headlight area and lift upwards about an inch to dislodge the fairing from the 2 hooks that support it. Set outer fairing aside in a safe place.


    I have a hidden antenna inside my fairing and had to disconnect it before setting fairing aside, so keep that in mind, cause I forgot it was there. If nothing additional to remove you should be looking at something similar to this.


    This is a good time to take pictures of how the wiring harnesses are bundled up and zip tied, as you'll need to make them look similar when done, or they could interfere with your headlight assembly or just rattle around and drive you nuts. You will want to tie up your headlight harness or tuck it behind a wire bundle so that it doesn't sit on your front fender scratching it (which is why you should use a fender protector).

    From the handlebar side of the fairing you'll want to locate the three wire looms that run internal to your handlebars (if internally wired) or the 2 external wire looms "(if not internally wired) as well as the internal TBW wiring harness. Trace these out to their associated connectors and disconnect. They should look like the following.


    Once disconnected gently pull these wires through the fairing support bracket and untangle them from the gauge pod harnessed and let them rest on your fuel tank cover.

    Now you want to loosen your clutch/brake controls using a T27 Torx driver. Do not remove at this time.


    Using a T25 Torx driver remove the 2 screws (one center top, one outside bottom) switch housing screws. This will free the clutch/brake controls from the switch housing. Switch housings will remain on the handle bars at this time (if externally wired you can remove them as well as the plastic retaining clips holding the harness to the bars).



    I zip tied my clutch and brake components to the crash bar to ensure I didn't scratch any paint, but depending on your bars you may want to remove them completely, especially if you're replacing cables/hoses.

    Using a T40 Torx driver/socket loosen 2 of the handlebar clamp bolts and set aside. I chose caddy corner bolts.



    Have a second set of hands hold the handlebars while you remove remaining 2 handlebar clamp bolts. Remove handlebars and wiring from motorcycle, and move to the workbench, or in my case the dining room table.

    The factory internally wired handlebars (CVO models) will have a zip tie holding all three (4) wire looms together at the hole where they exit the bars. Clip this zip tie using caution not to cut through any of the harnesses
    Last edited by 93-331-29psi; 04-22-2012 at 09:27 AM.

  3. #3
    Foudning Member 93-331-29psi's Avatar
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    ******Removing wiring from connectors******

    Non-CVO Bikes

    NOTE: As stated earlier if your bike is a non-CVO bike your TBW wiring may have a green plug connected to it somewhere inside your handlebars (my 09 did), and I've never disassembled that plug and I would doubt that connector plug will fit inside any bars with internal wiring (it is a tight fit). You may need to hardwire this, or maybe HD changed the design on all bikes (IDK) but I'd check that before proceeding any further (service manual). The CVO bikes TBW runs the entire length of the bar and into the area behind the fairing.

    CVO Bikes

    The first step at removing the wiring from the connectors is to take a few pictures, front and back, outlining each plug and drawing a picture orienting the plug (however you want) and what color wires reside where.


    Once you have a clear understanding and verified your wiring and wire locations you'll want to disconnect your plugs. They all come apart the same way so I'll only outline one of them. Place your jewelers screwdriver under the side clip and lift slightly the handle end of the screwdriver. This will disengage the lower half of the plug from the upper half (see second pic).



    Rotate plug and repeat on the opposite side. Once the lower half of the plug is removed, on both sides, slide it about 3-4 inches down the wire to allow yourself room to work with the wires. Use your jewelers screwdriver to pry out the rubber weather seal. Finesse is the key.


    Using your "frosting/crochet" needle release the white insert from the wiring connector. You will insert the needle in each side to disengage the clip, and pull slightly (1/16th") so it releases the white clip from the wire connector tabs internal to the plug (not shown).


    Frosting needle



    On the backside of the connector you'll insert a long sewing needle into each plug socket, close to the wire, and lift the rear of the needle towards the outside (of the side you're working on) of the plug. This will release the tab holding the wire terminal into the plug. (Sorry the picture taken was blurry). Repeat this process for each wire in the plug assembly. Once complete you'll look like this.


    Once all wires are free from their plugs slide off the weather insulator, and lower plug end cap from the wires, you'll need to remove the plastic clip at the switch housing side. This is used to protect the wires from the handle bars, but most aftermarket bars (chubby bars at least) won't accommodate for this piece.


    You can now pull your wiring harness out through the old handlebars (FINESSE). Note I did one side at a time (a plug is still in place in pic).


    Now is a great time for a smoke and a beer, and maybe perfect time to call it a night. If you run thin on patience during the wiring phase you'll cause yourself lots of headaches. You need to be patient and take your time. What worked for me may not for you, but it will all fit if you "TAKE YOUR TIME."
    I used the plastic sheathing as a means from keeping the wire terminals from getting bent and tangled with the TBW harness. I started the switch harness in along with the TBW harness and pushed them in at the same time. A little bit of lube don't hurt here, but I opted not to use it and made out fine.

    Once the wires have all been pushed through take a few minutes to straighten out your wiring harness so that it goes back together easier. Feed the wires (in correct order) through the lower plug cap, then weather insulator, and into the main plug assembly.


    You will notice a nipple on the terminal, and a notch out of the backside of the upper plug assembly. That nipple needs to be towards the center of the plug when inserted. When it's fully seated you'll hear a little click. After all the wires are into the plug, use your jeweler screwdriver and gently press down on the white retainer and endure that all wires are fully seated by gently giving them a slight pull.


    reinsert the weather insulator then the lower plug end until you hear it click into place. Repeat process for other plug assemblies, and opposite side wiring harness. Once all the wiring harnesses are back together zip tie the harnesses where they come out of the bars (as Harley had it when we started) install hand grips and very loosely secure the upper and lower switch housings to one another.

  4. #4
    Foudning Member 93-331-29psi's Avatar
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    ******Assembly******

    Now you need your assistant to help get the bars on the bike and get them properly oriented for you.


    Installation will be reverse order of disassembly, and outlined in your service manual, but I'll cover the order of reassembly I used..

    Installed Bars, and only tightened 2 of the clamp bolts, ensure that bars are comfortable for your riding position.

    At this point you'll need to determine if your stock cables/hoses are long enough to work with your bars, or if you'll need to reroute anything (You should have determined this prior to starting the replacement). In my case I needed to reroute my clutch hose.

    Cut zip tie holding clutch assembly to crash bar, disconnected the hose from the master using a 12mm wrench. and place clutch assembly on workbench ensuring that fluid don't leak all over the place. (Note: I had 10mm plugs and capped the hole in the master to prevent leaking.


    I had to remove the lower fairing support to frame bracket bolt that held the clutch hose to the frame using a 9/16" wrench on one side and socket on the other side. I didn't completely remove this, just backed it off far enough to feed the clutch hose back through. Once I got the hose out I retightened to spec.


    Reroute clutch hose straight up the frame, behind other hydraulic hoses and wiring, and across the top of the triple tree right to left. I also had to move the clutch hose retaining clip from the top left facing forward to the right front facing rearward.

    Reattached the clutch assembly to handle bars, in a position comfortable for your riding position, and reattach clutch hose to master cylinder using new crush washers. With 12mm wrench tighten banjo bolt to spec.

    Tighten down relocated triple tree retaining clip and zip tie clutch hose to the left handlebar riser.

    Cut zip ties holding the Brake controls to the crash bar, and remount them on the handlebars .

    Secure tightly (don't over tighten) the switch housings ensuring that everything is aligned as it was prior to disassembly.

    Reinstalled Wiring harness through fairing support, and reconnected them to their associated main harness plug


    ******TEST Handlebar Controls******
    Ensure the bike is in "NEUTRAL" and started it.
    Verified that TBW works including the EITMS
    Verified turn signals, brakes and horn. I assumed (which I shouldn't have) that the headlight would work (which it did), but highly recommend connecting one and testing low/high beams both.
    Installed and torqued handlebar clamp to spec

    Zip tie handlebar wiring, behind fairing, to the other wire harness as it was prior to cutting the zip ties and removing the handlebar wiring

    Having a second set of hands, reattach the hidden antenna wiring and zip tie it out of the way.

    Pull your headlight harness through the left (from the front) headlight hole of the outer fairing (I've forgotten to do this before, lol). Reinstall outer fairing, starting by ensuring that hooks are properly seated in the notches of the outer fairing. The side of the fairing have tabs that have to be perfectly engaged with the inner fairing tabs. This can be a frustrating task so take your time getting them positioned properly.

    Reinstall 6 inner to outer fairing screws loosely, with longest screws at the two bottom holes, and shorter screws at the remaining 4 positions. I tightened the top screws first pulling the windshield tight to the inner fairing.

    Reinstall front turn signals and making sure that the wiring is sully pushed back into the fairing and not visible from below. Hand tighten the 4 nuts that hold them on.


    Tighten the remaining 4 inner to outer fairing support screws (Don't over tighten as you'll strip the holes), followed by the nuts holding the turn signals to crash bar support

    Now it's time to put the lights back in, in reverse order of removal, install the headlight adjuster/backing plate assembly by inserting the headlight adjuster nut/screws into the fairing until they click into place, followed by attaching the headlight sockets to the headlights, and lights to the backplate using 4 phillips screws (each). Repeat for other light. Install headlight bezel by inserting top tabs into place until they click, then push the bottom into place until the lower tabs click into place.

    Now you'll need to dress up the gauge pod area and get that back in order. I started by reconnecting my cruise/acc switch harness, then using another zip tie to attach the brake hose to the right handle bar rise as I did the clutch on the left. This will prevent the brake.clutch hose from rubbing the paint off the gauge pod or switch nacelle pieces. Next was to reconnect the nacelle pieces by lining up the tabs on the lower switch nacelle, then the rear of the gauge pod, then the front. Once this is complete you'll want to reconnect the lower nacelle to the forks and tighten using the T40 Torx driver.

    Reconnect gauge and warning light wiring connectors, and reinstall gauge pod same was it was removed (pushing slightly upward) top first then tuck bottom tab under nacelle. Insert gauge pod screws and using T25 Torx driver.

    At this time you'll need to either adjust your clutch or bleed your slave cylinder. To bleed the clutch the process is the same as the brakes, and there are several methods. I prefer the old fashioned pumping the handle turning the bleeder method, but a vacuum pump would work as well.

    Go for a test ride, and ensure nothing is leaking, and enjoy your new bars. Feel free to PM me any questions or concerns as I may have missed some things, as notes were scattered across 3 different notebooks.

  5. #5
    Foudning Member 93-331-29psi's Avatar
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    After lots of thought I've determined that I am going to replace my clutch hose with a 2 inch longer piece so that I can route it how it was supposed to be done from the factory.

  6. #6
    Foudning Member 93-331-29psi's Avatar
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    After Pics



  7. #7
    Moderator/Foudning Member Tripp_HPjunkie's Avatar
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    very very very well done sir............thats going above whats needed to help other people out.........
    this thread needs a sticky......
    www.baggertech.com your newest Custom Bagger forum.

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